The magic begins at San Luis Obispo Airport, picturesquely nestled amidst stunning hills that shimmer emerald in the spring and turn to gold later in the year.
An open-air courtyard beyond security beckons for unwinding with a beer at this regional airport in SLO CAL, as this part of central coastal California is known.
The airport sets the tone for relaxation for the rest of the trip. Unlike many areas of the Golden State, SLO CAL is free from the bustle of big city life and its accompanying traffic woes. It does, however, offer incredible vistas, 100 miles of pristine coastline, amiable weather, stunning attractions that include a magnificent castle atop a seaside hill, quirky accommodations and a robust foodie scene that boasts eight Michelin Guide nods, further strengthened by more than 300 wineries, many of these certified sustainable.
With a slogan of “Life’s Too Beautiful to Rush,” the county of San Luis Obispo, or SLO, is one of the original 27 countries in California. Approximately halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, and worlds apart from these two metropolises, SLO retains a small-town character and rural atmosphere, yet offers many of the creature comforts found in more populated areas. Towns and cities, from “Wines and Waves” Pismo Beach to teeny Harmony(population: 18), offer a plethora of opportunities to stop and take it easy.
Charm at every turn
Take Cayucos, a happy hamlet of 2,000 lucky people who have the Pacific Ocean as their front yard. Cayucos is small, but people travel from all over to bask in the small beach town atmosphere and to glory in its food. This charming seaside village, right off scenic Highway 1, is home to culinary gems such as Hidden Kitchen (hiddenkitchencalifornia.com). From the exterior, Hidden Kitchen is, well, kind of hidden, but this is the place for waffles, and not your average waffles, either, but rather a blue corn waffle mountain such as the San Luis Sunrise, topped with two free-range eggs, Niman Ranch bacon, avocado and an incredible “proprietary” sauce.
Cayucos is also home to the Pacific Motel, representative of SLO CAL’s trend of upcycled boutique lodgings. SLO CAL, home to the world’s first motor inn, continues to build on that road trip destination heritage with new additions such as the Pacific. Crisp, cool and impeccably reimagined while still retaining the charm of vintage lodgings, the Pacific enjoys pristinely manicured landscaping, top-of-the-line furnishings and curated amenities, all within five minutes of the ocean.
The area’s major cities, San Luis Obispo, or SLO City, and Paso Robles, are still eminently approachable and espouse savoring life SLO-ly. Nicknamed Happy Town, SLO City earned the No. 1 Foodie City in California spot — and No. 3 in the country spot — in 2022, according to Yelp.
In both of these towns, the unexpected is routine. Wonderfully over the top in both lodging and dining is SLO City’s Madonna Inn, a historic hotel with such an abundance of lovable weirdness that is in itself a destination. Individually themed rooms include a plethora of the unexpected such as waterfall showers and sequined textured or rock walls.
The Madonna Inn is also legendary for desserts as extravagant as the establishment. The Inn’s Copper Café, as well as a labyrinthine and ornate restaurant wrapped in shades of pink, red and gold, serve signature Pink Champagne and Black Forest Cake in sizes so large there is still enough for take-home even after sharing.
California Polytechnic, the go-to university for the technics in the Tournament of Roses floats, is based in SLO City and shares its energetic young vibes with the town. Many a student has left a chewy legacy at the city’s famous(or infamous, depending on your point of view) Bubblegum Alley, a 15-foot high, 70-foot long alley covered with bubble gum left over by passersby. Bring your own gum when you visit to leave your gumprint for posterity, or until the next time the walls get cleaned.
The joys of 'SLO City' and Paso Robles
Downtown SLO City has plenty of charm, regardless of the bubblegum. Historic Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa, where Father Junipero Serra first celebrated Mass in 1772, features contemplative gardens and a museum housed in the former convent wing.
A compact, pedestrian-friendly downtown features an abundance of unusual boutiques and eateries such as Novo, a restaurant that honors bold global flavors with from-scratch fresh cuisine made from locally sourced products. Its picturesque creekside patio is understandably busy, but perfect to take life as it was meant to be, slow and with joy.
Both SLO City and Paso Robles venerate the fruit of the vine, but it reaches fever pitch at Paso’s Tin City, an eclectic enclave of more tasting rooms, breweries, wineries and distilleries housed in a warehouse district three miles south of downtown. Parking is easy and strolling is encouraged.
Paso is justifiably proud of its world-class restaurants, including Michelin Star-rated The Restaurant at Justin and the Six Test Kitchen. The Michelin Guide also noted that Paso was home to The Hatch Rotisserie, Les Petites Canailles and In Bloom, of its “2023 New Additions to the California Guide,” which paves the way for reaching Star-status.
Many restaurants, including Fish Gaucho, purveyor of award-winning modern Mexican cuisine, are steps away from the Downtown City Park, where finding parking is a cinch.
Before the area gained recognition for its wines, Paso was celebrated for its abundant thermal hot springs. The hot sulfur springs still flow at River Oaks Hot Springs Spa, Franklin Hot Springs and in select guest rooms at the Paso Robles Inn. At River Oaks, guests can upgrade to a wine tasting experience at a private vineyard-view mineral tub bubbling with Zinfandel-infused bath salts.
There is an artsy side to Paso, too. The beautiful sculpture garden at Sculpterra Winey and Vineyard blends the world of art and wine together as guests stroll through world-class outdoor art, glass of wine on hand. The awe-inspiring “Bruce Munro: Light at Sensorio” offers a multi-acre walkthrough that includes a dreamscape populated by 100,000 stemmed glass spheres lit by fiber optics.
For remarkable scenery, journey on California 46 from Paso over the undulating mountains that separate the city from the epic ocean scenery along Highway 1. With so many perfect-looking vineyards beckoning, it will always be a case of so much wine, so little time when traveling in this part of the world.
Wine, dine and wind down
It is not surprising that SLO CAL’s dining experiences are inextricably connected with wines. Vineyards such as Ancient Peaks in quaint Santa Margarita offer chef-curated winery lunches. Here, it is also literally possible to “Zip and Sip,” for Margarita Adventures, across the street from Ancient Peaks Winery, takes guests to the 14,000-acre Santa Margarita Ranch to zipline high above the vineyards before returning them for a wine tasting at the winery.
SLO CAL is home to more than 300 wineries, 50 of which have been certified sustainable for their efforts to conserve water and energy, protect air and water quality and preserve the local ecosystems. Tablas Creek Vineyard in Paso is the world’s first Regenerative Organic Certified vineyard (2020) and the first Regenerative Organic Certified Gold vineyard (2022). Little goes to waste in this golden land that treasures sustainability and preservation. The county has been blessed with a creative community who works magic with the region’s abundance. For example, even discarded grape byproducts become handcrafted spirits at RE:FIND Distillery in Paso.
The crown of the county is without a doubt La Cuesta Encantada, the enchanted hilltop in bucolic San Simeon where media magnate William Randolph Hearst poured his love and his millions into a castle many kings would have envied. Sweeping views of the sea are as opulent in their own natural way as the manmade wonder that is Hearst Castle, and both can be enjoyed on a visit to this ultimate road trip destination.
Ten minutes north of Hearst Castle reside California Central Coast celebrities of Rubenesque proportions, the 17,000 elephant seals that annually migrate to the Piedras Blancas Rookery to raise their families. A few miles south of La Cuesta Encantada is Harmony and its 18 residents and a bodacious bovine sculpture, a nod to the town’s heyday as the SLO CAL dairy industry capital. Alas, the milk money is gone, but Harmony remains, now an artist’s haven.
Whatever the town and the pursuit, SLO CAL focuses on enjoying the moment.
Really, why rush?
More information: SLOCAL.com.
Maria Sonnenberg is a Brevard-based freelance travel and lifestyles writer.
